An Evening In Damascus

I have been to the top of khasion mountain in Damascus just for a small sight seeing. To our surprise we were able to see some spectacular fireworks on that day. It was supposed to be some important day for syrians as their former president has announced some good social welfare schemes and they commemorate that.

I could also see some people passing in some truck like thing with shouting slogans like " Loving live the president" etc.

we enjoyed the evening there and then went to Dummar where we had nice meal at Algora Cafe.

Syrian Istyle : Protests in Damascus

Contrary to my earlier perception of " Axis of Evil" and other stories Damascus was quite peaceful and I manage to roam around quite freely. I have not encountered any problems whatsoever.

Yesterday I was on my way to a travel agency to collect my travel tickets. Yeah..I am going on a small 4 day trip. I saw many young girls and boys some even with school bags standing on either sides of a street in an area called " Bahsa" near victoria bridge. Normally, this is a very busy part of the so called ' Down Town" with shops, husttle busstle, numerous cars, horns, sound and people walking everywhere. To my surprise that busy street was empty and had no traffic except for people standing on both sides as if they were waiting for some thing. I could also see some TV crew with camera and other shooting equipment. I walked my way to the travel agency wondering what all this was about.

As I just crossed a street I could see a group of about 200 people or so (all young..probably.college students) marching down the roads with some syrian flags and shouting some slogans. I gathered from the travel agency guy that it is an protest against the clashes between Israeli police and Palestinians which is happening in Israel. Knwoiing the syrian connection I exclaimed " ohhhh this is an anti Israli rally" The trael guy said NO it is not against Israel. We are just showing our support to palestinians. He proudly claimied " you know we love Palestanians". I liked his idea of putting things positively.

I was watching the protestors pass by whle my agent was busy getting my ticket ready. I could see that the protest was very simple and peaceful. All the protestors were walking by the roads shouting slogans when all the crowds standing by are watching cheerfully. There was lot of security though. I could also see a group of all girls also coming from the opposite direction. I used my imagination and thought that these two groups will join together and move ahead to a different road.

To my surprise the protestors were very much organised and were peaceful. I could not stop noticing some young people enjoying the whole process walking, talking and smiling at the watchers.( Not to forget shouting slogans too). The shop keepers were doing their business as usual. Every every passer by is just spending a couple of minutes watching the crowd and then going out on their way. I liked this whole idea of a peaceful protest where people do their business at the same time they acknowledge the process of protest and they are proud about it.

I followed suit, collected my ticket and started back to my office. I got delayed by 30 minutes only the traffic is quite heavy as some roads are blocked.While on my back i could hear some Syrian Foreign ministers saying some thing in Arabic......thought it was his istyle of protesting or expressing support..

On way to Palmyra on Khadmous

Visiting Palmyra was on my Personal to do list for quite some time now. It gained prominence when I came across a couple of blogs with comments like “if you have only one day in Syria then this is the place you should see” . This is a small city which is about 200+ kms from Damascus. After much procrastination as usual I woke up on a saturday morning and hit the road. I gathered enough information about this place thanks to Google. I left home at 7 AM to the bus stand curiously called 'Garage Golman" (No clue why a bus stand is called Garage…..Syrian Istyle). Without much difficulty I reached the place and got a ticket in a KHADMOUS bus. (Most Popular local bus agency) The ticket was just 115 SP. I managed to get a ticket for an 8 AM bus. Original intention was to go by 7 AM bus but as usual my lazy bones did not get up on time hence the delay. Bus looked good and also was very neatly maintained. The bus took off at 8.05 AM with just 10 passengers, unlike some agencies back home who wait till the bus is completely packed not just the seats. The buses even had an attendee and were served water.

I managed to be awake for quite some time looking outside the window. Once we reached the highway there isn’t anything spectacular to watch and so slept off. I got up with the shout of the bus attendee. He looked at me and said this is Palmyra. I got down and found myself opposite one small shop and empty deserted street wondered if the bus guy played foul and dropped me in some god forbidden land. I frantically looked for some posters and was satisfied when I found one with Palmyra written in English. I was expecting too many visitors flocking the place but in contrast this place looked almost deserted.

I hailed a taxi and luckily managed to make him understand that I am a visitor and came to look at the Roman ruins in their city. The taxi guy could speak some broken words of English and he carried some postcards and explained that he would take me to all those places for 1000 SP after a little negotiation I managed to get him for 600 SP. The deal was that he would take me to all the important places and drop me back at the bus stand at 6.30 pm for my return bus.

…Watch out for the complete story in a little while.

Day Out in Damascus _ Final

I Paid the money to Osama for his ride to Malula and Sadnaya, thanked him and walked into the National Muesum. The building was quite impressive with a park outside where various figurines are placed. The park also had provision for benches for people to sit and relax. It all looked like a big picnic spot but was not adequately maintained. I was disappointed to know that no one is alloweed into it after 3 pm as it closes by 4 PM. I took a stroll in the park and was clicking some photographs. I was approached by a chinese guy for clicking his snap. I obliged and clicked a photograph for him. we exchanged some courteous greetings to each other and he told me that he is working in Huawei and is placed in cairo. He came to attend a meeting and was taking his time off the weekend to visit some places in Damascus. He was lucky to arrive early and finished visiting the mueseum. We decided to hang along as we both were alone.

My chinese friend has done his research well and fished out a couple of papers explaining about the important places to be seen in Damascus. He intended to find out a place called silver street but no one seemed to have a clue about the place. I have then suggested him that we shall walk to Hamadiya soq and the Omayyad Mosque as they are very near by. I just asked a couple of people just to make sure about our way and walked to hamadiya Soq. I have been to this place before but walked along with my new friend into the market. we were exchaning our middle east experiences to each other. We walked till the fag end of the street looking curiously at the small shops selling everything from spices, perfumes, clothes, jewellery etc. in the Hamadiya soq. This is a traditional market place with streets covered with semi circular roof probably to protect the shoppers from wind, rain and heat which is so abundant here. The walk led us to the Omayyad Mosque.

We just followed all people and a stood outside the mosque. We took our shoes out and carried them along with us and walked inside the mosque. Though it is a religious place there were no restrictions and encourged by some local guys who were taking photographs we took our cameras and took some photographs of the interiors. We saw a small covered structured and saw people praying there. Looking at it we thought it is supposed to be a tomb. Later on we sent in a quite place looking and enjoying the place. I adjusted my camera into auto mode and took a snap of us both.

While we were on our way out my friend got a call from his colleaque. he explained that he has to rush back to the botel for some urgent meeting. We parted ourways and I decided to go to Azem place which was next destination in my friends list. I went there and was sad to know that it also closes by 4 pm. I dont know why I was so unlucky that day. I was just standing there and a couple of people tried to enter the place and were denied access. The watchman and that guy exchanged some words in arabic. I thought it would not be possible for me to go inside. I asked the watchman permission to take a photograph of the enterance. He readily agreed. When I finished taking the photograph he asked me where I am from. When I said India he welcomed me.Taking advantage of his changed nature I asked the watchman to let me in. To my surprise he allowed me inside. He came along with me and explained a few things. The palce looked old and shattered much like the phalaknuma palace of Hyderabad. However the inside was impressive with big mirrors fitted in frames and furniture. I took some photographs and went back.I handed the watchman a 50 SP note as "bakshees". This is some sort of tip to him.

I walked back and was trying to find out directions for my way I stopped an elderly gentlemen and asked him about the way. He asked me where you are from and actually walked along with me for a couple of minutes. once he reached a junction. He asked me to go straight for the main road. He advised me if you are interested in looking for some christian place then you should go to Bab Sharki. I followed the elderman advise and walked a little. I visited a couple of church buildings there. I was invited by a person into a building where some young kids were practising playing drums and trumphet.

Tired and satisfied with my adventours for the day I hailed a cab and headed to my apartment in ' DUMMAR'.

DAY OUT IN DAMASCUS - PART II

The church looked quite simple with a very smal door of about 4 feet high. Being mindful of not getting my head knocked off carefully went inside the main door. The main door led me to a open courtyard like thing with small rooms on all sides. I followed a sign which said " church de le" I went inside and found a big group of tourists sitting there. I saw a lady explaining about the church to a English man. She did not seem to be a nun as she was dresseed normally Tshirt and Jeans. The lady finished chatting with the guy and walked towards me. She volunteered to tell me about the story of that church. To my surprise she was speaking English very fluently. The lady explained that the church was supposed to be built between 275 - 325 AD. In 325 AD in an international meeting of church authorities it was decreed that all the churches should have square shape alatar. However this church has a Semi Circular altar and so was believed to be built before 325 AD. The builiders of the church adapted the earlier tradition of Roman pagan temples. The lady added that even carbon dating of the wood samples in the church ceilings have revelated that the wood belongs to about 2000 years old.It is a old syrian technique of having wood embedded into the stone walls and ceilings. The lady explained about a few paintings which were kept there in the church. She said that all the paintings were made in 1800 by a famous painter. She showed one specific potrait which was supposed to be custom made for the church as in that Jesus and his disciples are shown sitting around a semi circular altar with the legs of Jesus placed on a pedestal. This painting was stolen many times before but have curiously returned back all the times.

The church has got 3 chambers....one dedicated to virgin Mary,,, dedicated to saints surge and barcass...Dedicated to two other saints. The lady then explained that in Malula they still speak aramic, the language supposed to be spoken by Jesus himself. She asked my permission and then prayed for me in Aramic. The only word which sounded familar in the whole thing was "AMEN' which came in the last. She also directed me to visit the local museum and taste the wine there.

I followed the directions of the lady and went into the museum. It was a small room with some curious artefacts and some maps. It also had some souveniers for sale. it was more a souvenier shop rather than a muesuem. I skimmed through the articles available and purchased a chart explaining about the orgins of script in syria and a book at Sadnaya. I was greeted by a fellow traveller there. we exchanged a few greetings and she wondered that I am from India. The lady was from Uk who is here in syria for learning Arabic.

By the time I came out I realised that it was 2 PM and my hungry stomach was already screaming for food. Luckily Osma was thoughtful enough and ordered for PIZZA's for both of us A veg Pizza for you of course exclaimed Osama. I found out that they were planning to put Mushroom in the Pizza. I went there at the right time and instructed them to make my favourite plain Cheese Pizza. The Pizza I had was "Ultra-thin" crust which was cut into small squares which made it very easy to eat. Knowing my fetish for spicy food the owner of the cafe got some special pepper which they considered very spicy. The flavour was good and I loaded lots of it with each small piece much to the astonishment of Osama and the Owner. The dinner was quite delicious and affordable.(200 SP for two Pizza's and Softdrinks) Osama paid the bill himself and said that it was a treat from his side.

Quite satisfied with the Visit, i walked back to the Cab and Osama drove me back to Damascus. Since there was enoguh time still I asked Osama to drop me at the National Mueseum of Damascus

Day Out still Continues....Part III final.

Day Out in Damascus - Part 1

Last weekend I was feeling bored sitting in my room. Just thought for a couple of hours and decided to hit the road. Normally I used to plan my visits but this time I just decided to have a day out. I have called my Cab Guy Mr. Osama (Dont Worry...He has no resemblance to his notorious name sake neither any relation) and asked him to take me somewhere. He suggested that we should go to two nearby places around 50 kms from Damascus called Sadnaya and Malula. He said that they are important christian piligrims and every westerner who comes to Syria normally rushes to this place. I sat in the cab wondering what to expect but have confidently ushered Mr. Osama...Yella...(Lets go).

Out joureny via the highway of Damscus took about 30 minutes or so to reach Sadnaya. The climate was pleasantly warm and I have enjoyed the drive all the way. Mr. Osama stopped his vehicle (A big black Hyundai truck) opposite to a church located a top of a hill overlooking the city of Sadnaya. I thought by the location of it to be a fort but later on came to know that it is a church. . He said that this is the biggest and supposed to be a oldest church in that area.. I left him outside and walked my way up to the arched stairs arranged in a criss cross fashion. I have found a couple of potraits of Jesus and other biblical episodes inside. I was almost lost as the place was very hapazard having small lanes and by lanes, stairs leading to every direction. I started following a local lady who climbed the stairs ahead of me. Finally I have reached a small chamber with a curious notice saying " Leave your foot wear outside because you are going to enter holly earth"... I understood that they meant it is a holy place. Probably literal translation did the mistake. I removed my shoes and went inside to the chamber. There was a small Passage which led me to a inner chamber which is very dark. I could see some people praying near an idol and some altar with lot of wax candles. All the wall is covered with lot of small articles may be donations by worshippers. There was a nun dressed in black who was overlooking the whole place. I just stood there for some time and then came out. I did not know the real significance of the place and Mr. Osama was also not really aware of the importance. I could not ask any person too as I could not find any one speaking English there. The place looked important and by the sheer size of people who were coming in for praying understood that it should be of some importance. Took some photographs hesitatingly and started to move on.

Our next stop was a place called "Malula". Mr. Osama stopped his vehicle just near the foot of a hill. Actually it is the begining of a small passage between two hills. A marked sign said " WELCOME TO MALULA". Mr,. Osama suggested that I should walk myself in this passage and take pictures if felt like. he would meet on the other side of the passage near a bridge. I walked down the passage. it was a small irregular curvy passage of about 10 to 12 feet between the two hills. I took a couple of snaps. Neither the hills nor the passage was very impressive. I noticed a small flow of water passing along the passage. However, i could see a lot of tourists on the way mostly in groups. I just walked my way in the passage which took about 10 minutes or so. I was glad that I could locate Mr.Osama on the bridge waiting for me. I went up and sat. Mr. Osama explained that this passage was created by GOD himself to give WAY to Mariam (Mother of Jesus). To escape the Romans threats she flee from Rome and have come this way. She was Pregnant at that time and could not take the burden of climibing the hill so GOD made her a way. Impressed with the story I started looking around taking a second curious look at the passage. A few minutes drive led us to another church called " CONVENT Sts. SERGE et BACCIIUS"

.............Contd... in part II

Yellam Kat schuyam....Lets go chewing kat.....Yemeni Style

I had a chance to meet a guy from Yemen who has started travelling along with me in the company provided bus. After a few pleasant introductions and a few glances in the work place I started conversing with him. Luckily, the guy speaks fairly good english,,,,,Excellent in comparison to his arab counterparts I should say.

My friend and I were waiting for the bus to come and started a friendly conversation with our new yemeni acquantince. We were asking the guy about some interesting things in Yemen. He said and I quote " The most favourite time pass of most people in Yemen is 'KAT CHEWING". We wondered if we got it right at the first time and asked him again. He said that it is kat chewing which is their favourite time pass. For a moment we looked at him puzzled and our new friend also looked puzzled amazed at the thought that these guys from India do not know anything about KAT CHEWING. Which part of the world these people come from ??

Later on, he has given a brief description about it. The "Kat" is some sort of a herb leaf of sort..more similar to our "paan". It is chewed like a bubble gum for about 3 to 4 hours. This kat chewing is done in an organised way and they have specialised cafes like thing for this kat chewing. They have some socially organised functions for this kat chewing. There are numerous varities and flavours of kat. I wondered if all this is true and just googled with the key word " Chewing in Yeman" and vola... found loads of information about this custom. There are online debates, private and public sponsored researches which are going on about his.

I thought if at all I happen to visit Yemen by any chance I should make it a point to drop at one of these kat chewing cafes. Do watch out for them in case you are in Yemen anytime.

Extracts from an Appeal "FOR SYRIA'

A couple of days before while I was shopping for Vegetables in a local market in Mezzeh,Damascus my eyes got the attention of a small typed paper which was struck on a wall in the market titled " FOR SYRIA". The only reason why I bothered to read it was because it was both in Arabic and English. After reading the first few lines, I could not resist myself from not reading the complete thing and even showing it to my friend.

I got very impressed by it a lot, more because it was written by a 11 year old named Lisa Yazjy. I am not sure, but assuming that the name is of a girl. Lisa Questions the reader and I quote " Do you like Syria to be clean and green ? ' . Do you want people from far off places to come and enjoy its nature ? and then asserts ....If No, please get out of Syria. If yes...then please do not throw papers and keep the city clean." It further talks about a few other dos and donts on public place regarding waste papers etc.

I wondered how thoughtful the young kid would have been who took the pain of writing such a wonderful thing and sticking it in places for public like me to read. I admired that young girl who had the guts to keep her thoughts into practice in a proactive way rather than cribbing. I personally was always against throwing garbage or papers on the road but never did much about it other than gentle reminder to my close pals once in a while Never, it had occured to me to make an appeal like this and post it.....May be I would have influenced a lot many people...who knows.

Lets forget the if's and buts of the story for the moment. I take this opportunity to carry out the appeal started by young Lisa and request you all not to throw papers or garbage on the streets....They are to be put in their right place....the dustbins....as Lisa says it.....

TRAVEL IN DAMASCUS

Yellow Coloured Taxis are one of the prominent features of the Damascus Roads which no traveller or visitor cant miss noticing. There are too many of them passing by, no matter which ever road you are in and at what ever time. So far, it is close to 3 weeks now in the city and I have always managed to catch one even at about 12 or 1 in the night. Travelling in one of these cabs is quite safe as I did not face any problems till now. However, One has to take care that he knows the exact address of the place he intends to go or better get it written down in a slip in Arabic so that it is easy to communicate.

There are electronic meters in every taxi but rarely one uses them. Most of the time we have to bargain. I have now made a thumb rule that whenever I go in a taxi normally I would bargain for about 60 to 70% of the price he has asked for. I always managed to make him accept that. Still somehow I feel I am paying more but we cannot avoid certain things when you are new My knowledge of arabic numbers both written and spoken are being of great help to me. I am now managing quite well with the taxi guys even strike a conversation with some of them with very few arabic words I know. They are all very good and try their best to help in case you are looking for a specific place.

The other most and more economical way of travelling in Damascus is in the 5 rupee cabs. I have not yet explored these cab services completely but have managed to spot too many of them going everywhere. They are white vans plying fron one area to another. You can just hail for one and can get into it and go along. We have to pay only 5 lira. The problem is you should be well aware of the place where you want to go. Normally the co-passengers are very helpful and would normally direct you to the correct direction provided you can make them understand in Arabic or if they understand English, which is normally quite rare. I have not yet ventured much in these cabs right now. I was also made to underatand that there are various coloured onee like red, green yellow etc which ply in specific areas. I would venture out on these very soon if not anything I can get down at the place where I got in as they normally go in circling the whole town.

Somehow, there arent many public transport vehicles like buses. I wonder why ? I could see lot of bus shelters on all the main streets "with two chairs".... But havent any bus stoping there. May be they are scare or have specific times. Have to find out !!!!

IN SEARCH OF ACCOMODATION

Today, I have started looking for a good Accomodation for myself. I am presently staying in a suburb locality of Damascus called Dummar. The locality is quite good and posh but is quite far from the office. I wanted to cut down on the travel time. I presently go in a cab to another area called Mezzeh to catch up the office bus. I have ventured out today in search of an accomodation in Mezzeh.

I have found out a real estate agent yesterday and have taken his appointment for today. I have luckily managed to convey my need for an apartment with whatever little arabic I know and with some broken english words and signs. The agent has taken me to a couple of places. I havent liked one but two others were quite good enough but little out of my budget.

Not knowing the local language was a very big handicap for me. Luckily a couple who were showing me their place today managed to get some girl on phone who could speak English, quite well I should say. Through her I have managed to understand the terms and conditions. I like the house though as the decor and the condition is good saving one problem that it is in the third floor and has no lift. May be it is a good way to exercise. If at all I decide to take it. I realised that it would be better if I can take up my local friend who would know Arabic to speak about all other matters before really making any decision. I dont know if I could bargain to reduce the rent a little. Today it struck that if only I could know a little bit Arabic it would have been much better. I have seen the real estate agents and his colleagues speaking among themselves in Arabic. I do not really know what were they speaking among themselves. Something about me...Not sure.

However, the overall experience was very good to me as both the house owners and the real estate agents were really nice and very helpful to me. They were trying their best to make me understand about their house, facilities offered, rent, terms and conditions etc. I have also tried my best to exchange a few curtosies like Marhaba (Hello) and Shukran (Thank You) and Ma Salame ( Take Care). I realised that the few broken words of Arabic which I spoke made them really close and happy. I have resolved that I should learn a little bit more of the local language fast.

IN SEARCH OF ICE

On the Morning of the First Day of New Year 2007, Me and my friend RK got up lazily at about 8.15 AM or so. We decided to go to place called "BLUDAN'. My friend had gathered from a localite that it is a very beautiful mountain place with ICE. Honestly, I was skeptical about the whole thing but have decided to give it a try as I could not think of anything better at that moment. I called up my Cab Guy, Osama (No link whatsoever to his namesake the infamous guy) to arrange a cab for both of us to go there. After a little bargain, he has agreed for a price of Rs. 1000 SP for a round trip.

We sat in a Bus Shelter, opposite to my friends hotel waiting for the cab. The bus shelters are a kind of cute but funnily there are just two chairs in every one of them. Only two people normally wait for a bus in Damascus ? No Clue. We spent the time chatting and taking some pictures of us. The time was 9.45 AM and my cab has arrived. With a Lot of anticipation we have started our Journey. The journey was quite good but not that much of traffic. There was fog everywhere. We wondered what to expect. It took about 45 minutes ride for us to have first glimpses of ice on the pavements and on tree tops. After that the terrain changed dramatically and we have started looking at snow covered mountains. Another 10 minutes of ride landed us admist snow....You dont believe it was complete snow. Luckily the weather was bright and sunny. Our warm clothes were sufficient and we have enjoyed little walks on snow here and there. we had the chance to click some good snaps of us.

No words could explain the simple beauty of this place. It was amazing and I was pleasantly surprised. I wasnt prepared for the sight. Mountains covered with thick layers of snow. We had enjoyed an hour admist ice covered roads and cliffs. I thought, its an irony of life that, there might be many such small mountains on the foot hills of Himalayas,Not to forget the Great Peaks themselves, but while I was in India, never had time or opportunity to visit them. However in this strange land, I had all the time, thanks to unexpected new year holidays of about an week.

An hour was not enoguh is what we both friends echoed to each other. We have deicded that we should plan a longer visit in this place may be a night halt to enjoy the place. I always feel time is not enough at all when you are admist such a beautiful place.